Dutch Embassy - Berlin

The Dutch Embassy in Berlin, by architect Rem Koolhaas, was a very well designed building. I have always enjoyed the work of Koolhaas and OMA, so I was expecting alot. Unfortunately, security protocols mandate no pictures anywhere near the entrance or interior. So for more detailed shots you'll have to check out the website. One particular aspect of the Dutch culture I found very interesting was the fact that a certain percentage of the total building cost (I think 2 percent) had to be dedicated to purchasing art for display as you can see by the large work displayed on the wall below.

PS. They also had a super cool couch in the lobby, if anyone snuck a picture let me know.

The Ghosts of Berlin

What is the intention of a memorial? Is it to remember those who were unjustly treated or to honor those who showed extraordinary bravery or to remind a nation of its proudest moments? In Germany the idea of a memorial has begun to take on a slightly different meaning. In recent years Germans have found themselves deciding what deserves to be memorialized and what should just be forgotten. In Germany's recent history there are two era's that I would like to focus on: the time of WWII/ the 3rd Reich and the time of the Wall/ Foreign occupation. I selected these two periods because they offer two different situational attitudes. In the era of the 3rd Reich, the German people were responsible for the authority of the government; while in the time of the Berlin Wall, the Germans were the under the oppression of foreign rulers. In one case a monument reminds Germans of their own transgressions, whereas, in the case of the Berlin Wall, a monument begins to show the cruelty the Germans were subject to in a time of foreign occupation. With this, I would like to look at how these two time periods are represented, as memorials, in modern day Berlin.

The largest portion of memorials in Berlin are of the WWII period, as Berlin was the main headquarters for the 3rd Reich. These memorials are fall into a couple of categories: memorials to the victims of the Nazis, memorials to the fallen Russian soldiers, and memorials meant to provide a view of how the Nazi party functioned. One of the first memorials I was able to visit was the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. This memorial, in my opinion, was very successful in relaying the solemn nature of its intent. The large field of stellae create a maze of light and sound that begin to make the very static stone seem to come alive with memory. One of the most impressive monuments we were able to see was the one at Treptow Park. This monument is dedicated to the Russian soldiers who fell in the Battle of Berlin. Although monuments of this nature can be hard for a country to approve of, many of them are necessary to remind us that all actions have consequences. One memorial that must be mentioned is the Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial. The first concentration camp opened by the Nazis, Dachau served mainly as a area to hold political opponents and foreign saboteurs, though it was also well known for its extermination chambers. There are many factors that contribute to the grim feeling one experiences when entering this place. It is crucial that places of this nature be kept as a reminder of the evil mankind is capable of.

If you were trying to describe the mentality of Berlin, and Germany as a whole, in the time just following WWII it could be best accomplished with one word, Fractured. This fracturing was the direct result of the competing ideologies of foreign occupiers. The Wall, that stood from August 1961 till November 1989, was a constant presence in the thoughts and lives of every Berliner both East and West. With the fall of the wall came the debate of how it should be remembered or if it was even worth of memory. There has been an overwhelming majority of Berliners who feel the wall should be completely demolished in both the physical and historical sense. This has been hotly debated as the Wall has slowly evaporated over the past 20 years. Only a few portions remain of the wall, the large majority of which was destroyed by the state. One of the most popular Berlin Wall memorials is that of Checkpoint Charlie. This place has been highly commercialized and begins to show you the underlying sentiment of a place people wish to forget. The Berlin Wall Memorial had a more serious feeling to it. This small park is dedicated to remembering the Wall and those who fell victim to it. It has a much more serious feel to it. I found this park a much more reflective place, and a place much more appropriate to the magnitude of the subject.

In discussing the subject of memorials in Germany, one will always find many different points of view from which to speculate. Both eras in which my subject matter is found are deserving of remembrance. Although, as is usually the case, some of these memorials have lost the substance of their message, while some still convey the intent to which they were purposed. It is apparent that Berlin will feel the repercussions of each of these era's for many years to come.

Tempered Nationalism?

Through reading Peter Schneider’s The Wall Jumper, a picture is painted of a nation divided by both mental and physical barriers. The narrator tells the stories of his acquaintances both from East and West Berlin, and how each of them responds in their own way to the walls presence. One of the sub-topics throughout the story is that of the expression of German nationalism. Since the fall of the Nazi Regime, many Germans have struggled with the expression of their national identity. This has been made apparent, in recent years, with the discretion show in displaying the German colors by its citizens. Many have come to fear any form of nationalism as a precursor to the horrible events of Germany’s past.

This brings me to the present. Currently, Germany is one of four teams to qualify for the semi-finals of the World Cup; with this, many Germans have been proud to display their German colors. While to some this type of nationalism seems harmless, many see this as just the beginning to the “us vs them” attitude that sparked the rise of Nazi propaganda.

Being an American in Berlin I have had the chance to experience the World Cup fever here from an outsiders perspective. I have watched the games at crowded pubs and on large park monitors with thousands, and never was I treated in an unsuitable manner. On the contrary, many Germans were quick to praise the United States team on its current success (Although this could be because they don’t really view us as a threat).

As a sports fan, I feel as though the passion being shown for their team is a great testament to the support these people have for their home team. While sports are, by nature, an aggressive activity, they can also serve to promote unity and teamwork. It is this type of message that should be emphasized to all who watch or participate in any type of sport, especially one such as soccer.

Cars and such

We were fortunate to be able to visit a few.....car related structures? I'm not sure if it was the hundreds of priceless automobiles or the pure geometric forms, but the Porsche Museum was very impressive. Although touring a place where you can be almost certain you'll never be able to afford anything they product was somewhat bittersweet. It was like being diabetic and touring a Willy Wonka's Chocolate factory.

The Mercedes-Benz Museum didn't relay the same feeling. It came off as a much more...down to earth place. (As a footnote: In Germany almost every taxi you see is a Mercedes, so while many Americans normally think of that particular brand of car as prohibitively expensive, they are kinda the Chevy of Germany.)

Although I'm still not really sure what the BMW Welt facility actually does, I do know that the the double cone in the front was a really cool space.

...and finally I'm sorry to say, we visited the Volkswagen Transparent Factory. I can only speak for myself when I say I found this building to be a major disappointment. Many of the architectural elements seemed to stylistically clash with one another and other just seemed completely out of place. Better luck next time VW.

Concentration Camp - Dachau

The concentration camp at Dachau was the first established by the Nazis. Unlike many others this was not a extermination facility, at least not initially. This camp was used mainly to house political prisoners and others who got in the way.

The dormitory style housing has all been torn down. The structure you see in the picture below is a replica, built to the same standards as the original. Of the many other housing units, only the foundations were left, as a footprint of what used to be.

We were also taken into the gas chambers and incineration rooms. I couldn't bring myself to take pictures. Walking through that series of rooms and seeing the pictures of bodies piled atop one another was the most powerful experience I've ever felt in a place.

Hitler's Delusion - Nazi Rally Grounds at Nurnberg

On this day we visited what could be called the Nazi Party Headquarters. These grounds were to serve as an expression of Nazi power and German superiority. Though many buildings comprised these grounds, the Zeppelin Field held the most intrigue. On this field we find the center of the Nazi phenomena. When asked about Hitler many conjure an image of a man shouting into a microphone with a huge crowd their to cheer him on. On this field is where the majority of these rallies occurred.

The Cathedral of Light. As we listen to the story told by our very knowledgeable tour guide he states,"Upon witnessing the Cathedral of Light in person one foreign reporter stated, For a moment I was a Nazi." This spectacle is widely known as but one of the many tools of propaganda the Nazi's used to project power and superiority. Just images are enough to be awe inspiring. Fear and Wonder.

Bauhaus - Origins of Modern Design

On the first day of our south Germany excursion we visited the Bauhaus. This was one of the founding schools of modern design. This building, done by Walter Gropius, shows the type of design produced here. The modern movement was a search for an international style; Here you can see the stripping down of ornament and the very basic exterior colors.

These windows were operable by pulling a small chain. The building was built much more for looks than function. Walter Gropius was mainly concerned with getting the design work out to the public; So in designing this facility he ignored many rules that would have allowed the building to function better as a school/workshop.

This is one of the Master's Houses, houses where the senior members of the faculty were allowed to live. They were designed in the same international style as the Bauhaus School. I was surprised at the small sizes of the rooms, although when put into perspective these buildings must have been cutting edge for their time period (1920's).

The Berliner Dome

The massive scale of the Berliner Dome is the first thing that jumps out at you. As you move closer you can begin to see the many detailed carvings and sculptures. The massive concrete columns reinforce the structures monumentality.

The interior of the church was quiet amazing in both it's size and detail.

The lower level is the crypt for many of the royal family. It was somewhat strange to be walking around these coffins.

Then finally from the the basement to the roof. The view was amazing, although my fear of heights almost didn't allow me to make it.

A Visit to the Embassy

Today we had a chance to go to the area of the city in which many of the embassies are located. The first one of interest was the Mexican Embassy the large concrete pillars give it a very monumental quality. This type of design is used heavily in by Mexican designers due to the strong lines created by dark crisp shadows. At night, the design begins to take on the appearance of flag waving in the air.

The next set of embassies we saw were a series of Nordic Embassies. These many nations have such high respect for one another they decided to create one area in which all Nordic embassies could share. This area is wrapped in a wall of copper louvers. These nations all share similar architectural traditions which is apparent in the work.

Sans Souci

Possibly the most awe inspiring site I've seen thus far has been the royal retreat, Sans Souci. Translated from French, Sans Souci means No Worries. After WWII, many of Germany's historic structures were decimated into little more than rubble. Currently a number of these buildings have been rebuilt to look as though they were authentic; none of which have the gravitas of an original. Sans Souci is one of the few original buildings that survived the war.

It is amazing to see the detail craftsmen were able to achieve, without the use of modern tools. These types of structures took many years to complete. Whereas today even the largest of undertakings are completed in less than 10 years.

The royal guest house is located further into the gardens, and is almost as breath taking as the main palace.

Big Weiner Man

I didn't know that the US flag had so many different uses!

Fun in the Street

Saturday was our first opportunity to explore the city on our own. While walking around we stumbled upon some kind of fair. It was filled with street performers, fresh fruit and juices, and many different kinds of food. Then, as fate would have it, I got pulled into a street performers show.

A young British lady was juggling knives whilst hanging upside down. I was the one to throw her the knives. It was really neat to see some of the variety Berlin has to offer.

First Couple Days in Berlin

Sorry for the lack of posts so far, but the first few days have been fairly hectic. Here are the highlights so far. But first I just want to make a few observations about the city of Berlin.

- Bikes, Bikes, Bikes - The first thing I noticed about Berlin was the amazing extent to which this country goes to be green. The easiest thing to notice, in that regard, is the astronomical number of bikes you see on a daily basis. I have also been pleasantly surprised by the types of people who used bikes as a primary method of transport; to be simple, there is no type. You can see everyone from businessmen in suits to gypsys in rags all peddling away.

- No A/C anywhere - Being from the US this has been kinda crazy. The first couple of days have been pretty hot so needless to say it could be pretty uncomfortable at times, although a cold front has started to come in and it is already feeling much better.

- Man's Best Friend - From what I have seen, Berliners can take their pets with them just about anywhere. Ex. When we went to the grocery yesterday there was a huge German Shepard laying just inside the entrance where his owner had tied him. Also many dogs I have seen are not even on a leash. The whole atmosphere is much more relaxed than in America where many of the laws seem to be in place to prevent litigation.

- No Ice for You - A large majority of Berliners drink very little ice in their drinks (I'm talking like 1 maybe 2 small pieces of ice). This has probably seemed worst due to the unusually hot weather.

Now to my favorite stops so far.....

Right next to where we are staying is the Holocaust Memorial designed by American architect Peter Eisenman. The memorial is a field of these large monolithic concrete boxes that each vary height allowing visitors the opportunity to experience the space on a few different levels. When I first saw a picture of this memorial while still in the US, to be honest, I thought it was OK; After being able to experience the space, it has started to grow on me. I have a whole new appreciation and understanding of what the architect was trying to accomplish.

The way this memorial is arranged reminds me of the cemeteries in south Louisiana.

The Berlin Hauptbohnhof is one of the largest train stations in Europe. It is a mult-leveled structure that is covered by a large glass and steel canopy. I found the details of the glass to be very interesting.

We also visited the Reichstag Dome by British architect Norman Foster. It was nice to be able to get up so high and see a large majority of the city. The dome was recently rebuilt after the original was decimated in WWII.

The Akademie der Kunst (Academy of Art) by German architect Gunter Behnisch is an amazingly hectic building, but you really wouldn't notice from the outside.

Those are just a couple of my favorites in the brief time we've been here. Stay tuned.